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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -1,276 +1 @@ Moved this buildlog [to here](https://github.com/rafaeldelboni/buildlogs/blob/main/crkbd-v2.md) -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ Check the [final product](#final-product) Check the [video of this build](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E7KRnVCjq8) ## Check List: - [x] [Sort the parts](#part-list-original) -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -2,6 +2,8 @@ Check the [final product](#final-product) Check the [video of this build](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-E7KRnVCjq8&t=63s) ## Check List: - [x] [Sort the parts](#part-list-original) - [x] [Install/Configure QMK](#installconfigure-qmk) -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -203,7 +203,7 @@ I used some masking tape to help me organize the wires. ### Solder pro-micro male sockets "legs" Also another benefit of using masking tape is to don't let the solder go thought the hole and "glue" with the PCB socket.  Is a good idea to use some solder flux on the copper wires to help with the soldering  -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -222,10 +222,10 @@ I was so frustrated with the results that I forgot to take pictures of this proc ### Solder TRRS An easy thru-hole solder, just had to straight the component legs before.  Result from above.  ### Manual test -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -191,84 +191,84 @@ On both PCBs ### Prepare copper wire to be the new pro-micro/OLED male pin Instead of using thru-hole diode legs for this step, I experimented doing the male pin legs with some 0.5mm copper wire, the only down side doing this is that the copper wire I bought came covered with a thin plastic layer that I had to remove in order to make it electrical conductor.  Left wire is the one I sanded out the plastic compared with how it came on the right.  I used some masking tape to help me organize the wires.  ### Solder pro-micro male sockets "legs" Also another benefit of using masking tape is to don't let the solder go thought the hole and "glue" with the PCB socket.  Is a good idea to use some solder flux on the copper wires to help with the soldering  On both PCBs  ### Rewire oled socket with new "legs" This was the hardest part of all project, de-soldering the OLED current pins without a good solder sucker wasn't a good idea.  I was so frustrated with the results that I forgot to take pictures of this process.  ### Solder TRRS An easy thru-hole solder, just had to straight the component legs before.  Result from above.  ### Manual test At this moment I had enough to setup a manual test, to check if all I did until here was ok.  I when to [keyboardtester](https://www.keyboardtester.com) and plugged the new keyboard to the PC.  I simulated the switch behaviour with the tweezer.  ### Solder reset Again an easy step, just had to straight the component legs before.  Result from above.  ### Solder hot-swaps Very similar to soldering the diodes, but with a way bigger component.  ### Mount the case Just some screws and the build was almost finished.  Adding the switches over the case.  Checking if all is working before the keycaps  #### Final product  ### (optional) Wood Wristrest I asked my father to create some wristrest for this project.  I didn't made much in this step, but just helped him as an assistant, maybe in the future I will have enough wood skill to do so.  -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -149,55 +149,56 @@ avrdude done. Thank you. ``` Do this for both pro-micros and you good to go.  ## Building ### Mark pcbs sides This is self explanatory, but is very helpfull to mark your pcbs sides.  ### Solder OLED jumper pads You need to solder the oled jumper pads in order to use oleds.  ### Soldering Pin Sockets I had to double check sometimes to see if I was soldering in the right side of the pcb, that's why marking the pcbs before helps a lot thought the process.  The other problem I had was that the PCB is designed to work in both sides, so you have 2 sets of holes to solder your pro micro, the trick to know which hole to use is use the ones that are inside a white box line looking from above.  From bellow the holes are passing thought the white line.  ### Solder diodes The SMD diodes are trick at first, they are pretty small and they have polarity, make sure to match the polarity with PCB.  To make it easier to solder, first put some solder on one of the PCB diode contacts and then with a tweezer hold the diode over the solder and heat it to stick the diode, proceed to the other diode contact and solder it normally.  All diodes soldered.  On both PCBs  ### Prepare copper wire to be the new pro-micro/OLED male pin Instead of using thru-hole diode legs for this step, I experimented doing the male pin legs with some 0.5mm copper wire, the only down side doing this is that the copper wire I bought came covered with a thin plastic layer that I had to remove in order to make it electrical conductor.  Left wire is the one I sanded out the plastic compared with how it came on the right.  I used some masking tape to help me organize the wires.  ### Solder pro-micro male sockets "legs" -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -101,7 +101,7 @@ Detecting USB port, reset your controller now.................. ``` At this moment, with some tweezers, reset the pro-micro  If you did right the following will be shown: ```bash -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -101,7 +101,7 @@ Detecting USB port, reset your controller now.................. ``` At this moment, with some tweezers, reset the pro-micro [Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/AzqhWex.jpg) If you did right the following will be shown: ```bash -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -101,7 +101,7 @@ Detecting USB port, reset your controller now.................. ``` At this moment, with some tweezers, reset the pro-micro  If you did right the following will be shown: ```bash -
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This file contains hidden or bidirectional Unicode text that may be interpreted or compiled differently than what appears below. To review, open the file in an editor that reveals hidden Unicode characters. Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -101,7 +101,7 @@ Detecting USB port, reset your controller now.................. ``` At this moment, with some tweezers, reset the pro-micro  If you did right the following will be shown: ```bash -
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Learn more about bidirectional Unicode charactersOriginal file line number Diff line number Diff line change @@ -0,0 +1,273 @@ # foostan Corne Keyboard ([crkbd](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd)) Check the [final product](#final-product) ## Check List: - [x] [Sort the parts](#part-list-original) - [x] [Install/Configure QMK](#installconfigure-qmk) - [x] [Compile/Flash Firmware](#compileflash-firmware) - [x] [Mark pcbs side (left/right)](#mark-pcbs-sides) - [x] [Solder OLED jumper pads](#solder-oled-jumper-pads) - [x] [Soldering Pin Sockets (pro-micro/oled)](#soldering-pin-sockets) - [x] [Solder diodes](#solder-diodes) - [x] [Prepare copper wire to be the new pro-micro/OLED male pin](#prepare-copper-wire-to-be-the-new-pro-microoled-male-pin) - [x] [Solder pro-micro male sockets "legs"](#solder-pro-micro-male-sockets-legs) - [x] [Rewire oled socket with new "legs"](#rewire-oled-socket-with-new-legs) - [x] [Solder TRRS](#solder-trrs) - [x] [Manual test](#manual-test) - [x] [Solder reset](#solder-reset) - [x] [Solder hot-swaps](#solder-hot-swaps) - [x] [Mount the case](#mount-the-case) - [x] [(optional) Wood Wristrest](#optional-wood-wristrest) ## Part list ([Original](https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-classic/doc/buildguide_en.md)) - 2x [Corne PCBs](https://keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pcb/53/crkbd-split-keyboard-corne-helidox-pcb-mini-e-version) - 1x [Corne Case](https://keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/cases/69/corne-split-keyboard-crkbd-helidox-acrylic-plate-case) - 2x [Pro Micro ATmega32U4 5V/16MHz Module controller Mega32U4 Mini leonardo for Arduino with the bootloader](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32842943705.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 2x [OLED 128X32 OLED Display Module 0.91" IIC Communicate for ardunio](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32672229793.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 42x [Kailh Hot-swappable PCB Socket Sip For Mechanical Keyboard](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32951252318.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 42x [SMD diodes 1N4148 SOD-123](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32916398082.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 1M [Round Copper Wire 0.5mm](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000781904492.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.770947e0Wl8ukF) - 4x [2.54mm Pin Header Female Single Row 40](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32817226478.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 2x [PJ320D 3.5MM Headphone TRRS Jack Socket Female Connector](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32785315917.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 1x [1m 4 pole Stero audio cable Car AUX MP3/MP4 3.5mm male to male](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32459681560.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 2x [Micro Switch Push Button 3.5X6.0X4.3mm 1136-4.3 DIP Black](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1068908059.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 42x [Zilents V2 Blue switches 67g](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33048985466.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.76fd4c4dCaERgB) - 42x Keycaps - 1u x 40, 1.5u x 2 ## Firmware ### Install/Configure QMK First to compile the crkbd qmk firmware you will need to use avr-gcc 8. In Arch use the following commands to install the dependencies: ```bash sudo pacman --needed -U https://archive.archlinux.org/packages/a/avr-gcc/avr-gcc-8.3.0-1-x86_64.pkg.tar.xz sudo pacman -S --needed \ arm-none-eabi-binutils \ arm-none-eabi-gcc \ arm-none-eabi-newlib \ avrdude \ avr-binutils \ avr-libc \ base-devel \ clang \ dfu-programmer \ dfu-util \ diffutils \ gcc \ git \ libusb-compat \ python \ python-pip \ unzip \ wget \ zip ``` Then clone the [qmk firmware](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware) and then ### Compile/Flash Firmware ```bash make crkbd:default:flash ``` This will compile and start to flash the firmware, make sure your pro-micro is connected in the usb port and the following message will be shown: ```bash QMK Firmware 0.9.19 WARNING: Can not run bin/qmk! This tool will be required when the develop branch is merged on 2020 Aug 29. Please run util/qmk_install.sh to install all the dependencies QMK requires. Making crkbd/rev1 with keymap default and target flash avr-gcc (GCC) 8.3.0 Copyright (C) 2018 Free Software Foundation, Inc. This is free software; see the source for copying conditions. There is NO warranty; not even for MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. Size before: text data bss dec hex filename 0 21574 0 21574 5446 .build/crkbd_rev1_default.hex Copying crkbd_rev1_default.hex to qmk_firmware folder [OK] Checking file size of crkbd_rev1_default.hex [OK] * The firmware size is fine - 21574/28672 (75%, 7098 bytes free) Detecting USB port, reset your controller now.................. ``` At this moment, with some tweezers, reset the pro-micro  If you did right the following will be shown: ```bash Device /dev/ttyACM0 has appeared; assuming it is the controller. Waiting for /dev/ttyACM0 to become writable.. Connecting to programmer: . Found programmer: Id = "CATERIN"; type = S Software Version = 1.0; No Hardware Version given. Programmer supports auto addr increment. Programmer supports buffered memory access with buffersize=128 bytes. Programmer supports the following devices: Device code: 0x44 avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e9587 (probably m32u4) avrdude: NOTE: "flash" memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed To disable this feature, specify the -D option. avrdude: erasing chip avrdude: reading input file ".build/crkbd_rev1_default.hex" avrdude: input file .build/crkbd_rev1_default.hex auto detected as Intel Hex avrdude: writing flash (21574 bytes): Writing | ################################################## | 100% 1.64s avrdude: 21574 bytes of flash written avrdude: verifying flash memory against .build/crkbd_rev1_default.hex: avrdude: load data flash data from input file .build/crkbd_rev1_default.hex: avrdude: input file .build/crkbd_rev1_default.hex auto detected as Intel Hex avrdude: input file .build/crkbd_rev1_default.hex contains 21574 bytes avrdude: reading on-chip flash data: Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.16s avrdude: verifying ... avrdude: 21574 bytes of flash verified avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (E:CB, H:D8, L:FF) avrdude done. Thank you. ``` Do this for both pro-micros and you good to go.  ## Building ### Mark pcbs sides This is self explanatory, but is very helpfull to mark your pcbs sides.  ### Solder OLED jumper pads You need to solder the oled jumper pads in order to use oleds.  ### Soldering Pin Sockets I had to double check sometimes to see if I was soldering in the right side of the pcb, that's why marking the pcbs before helps a lot thought the process.  The other problem I had was that the PCB is designed to work in both sides, so you have 2 sets of holes to solder your pro micro, the trick to know which hole to use is use the ones that are inside a white box line looking from above.  From bellow the holes are passing thought the white line.  ### Solder diodes The SMD diodes are trick at first, they are pretty small and they have polarity, make sure to match the polarity with PCB.  To make it easier to solder, first put some solder on one of the PCB diode contacts and then with a tweezer hold the diode over the solder and heat it to stick the diode, proceed to the other diode contact and solder it normally.  All diodes soldered.  On both PCBs  ### Prepare copper wire to be the new pro-micro/OLED male pin Instead of using thru-hole diode legs for this step, I experimented doing the male pin legs with some 0.5mm copper wire, the only down side doing this is that the copper wire I bought came covered with a thin plastic layer that I had to remove in order to make it electrical conductor.  Left wire is the one I sanded out the plastic compared with how it came on the right.  I used some masking tape to help me organize the wires.  ### Solder pro-micro male sockets "legs" Also another benefit of using masking tape is to don't let the solder go thought the hole and "glue" with the PCB socket.  Is a good idea to use some solder flux on the copper wires to help with the soldering  On both PCBs  ### Rewire oled socket with new "legs" This was the hardest part of all project, de-soldering the OLED current pins without a good solder sucker wasn't a good idea.  I was so frustrated with the results that I forgot to take pictures of this process.  ### Solder TRRS An easy thru-hole solder, just had to straight the component legs before.  Result from above.  ### Manual test At this moment I had enough to setup a manual test, to check if all I did until here was ok.  I when to [keyboardtester](https://www.keyboardtester.com) and plugged the new keyboard to the PC.  I simulated the switch behaviour with the tweezer.  ### Solder reset Again an easy step, just had to straight the component legs before.  Result from above.  ### Solder hot-swaps Very similar to soldering the diodes, but with a way bigger component.  ### Mount the case Just some screws and the build was almost finished.  Adding the switches over the case.  Checking if all is working before the keycaps  #### Final product  ### (optional) Wood Wristrest I asked my father to create some wristrest for this project.  I didn't made much in this step, but just helped him as an assistant, maybe in the future I will have enough wood skill to do so. 